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Daggerboard Repair

Printed From: Yachts and Yachting Online
Category: General
Forum Name: Repair & maintenance
Forum Discription: Questions & tips on the subject
Printed Date: 23 May 22 at 4:45pm
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 9.665y -

Topic: Daggerboard Repair
Posted By: Patrick
Subject: Daggerboard Repair
Date Posted: 18 Apr 06 at 1:26pm

No doubt I am not the first to damage a daggerboard.  I am new to dingy ownership (and thus maintenance) and have taken a chunk out of the bottom of daggerboard on my RS Vareo.  The core is now visable and clearly in need of attention.  Which capable of doing the job I am unfamiliar with either technique nor products.  ANy advice gratefully Received.




Posted By: timnoyce
Date Posted: 18 Apr 06 at 4:58pm
Could you post some photos of the damage? The advice will be much more meaningful for you if we know exactly what the problem is 

------------- - BEARFOOT DESIGN
Cherub 2648 - Comfortably Numb

Posted By: stuarthop
Date Posted: 18 Apr 06 at 6:31pm
i'm sure we can advise on how to mend your dagger board but pictures would help a lot as it would mean we can tell which is the best meathod of repair for the damage


Posted By: John Wilson
Date Posted: 18 Apr 06 at 7:28pm

I'm a big fan of plastic padding, I use it to fix bits on my centerboard all the time. The white stuff looks just the business too, although it's harder to get. I think it's called "Plastic Padding Marine Filler". The more standard stuff is green/grey & is made as car body filler & can be picked up in most hardware store. It is the same stuff - it just doesn't look as cool as white.

It should fix most minor centerboard & rudder problems. Although if it is a bigger chunk, around 3cm or bigger I wouldn't really know what to use!

Hope this helps.

Posted By: Patrick
Date Posted: 19 Apr 06 at 9:16am

Thanks for the tip on Plastic Padding.  However comment from Tim and Stuart make me inclined to post a photograph.  I'll try and do that tonight.  I think that there is about a 1x6cm exposure of the core.

Many Thanks.

Posted By: Garry
Date Posted: 19 Apr 06 at 4:56pm
I would only use plastic padding (car or marine) if it was cosmetic damage. If there's any risk of load in the area (and remember you stand on the C/B) I would use resin and filler powders / fibres.

Isn't there some C/B repair advice on the Laser site?


Lark 2252, Contender 298

Posted By: Patrick
Date Posted: 20 Apr 06 at 8:34am

 Its not a great phot but you get the idea.  Garry, many thanks I will see if I can find the Laser advice.



Posted By: tack'ho
Date Posted: 20 Apr 06 at 12:57pm
Ouch!! expoxy and fillers me thinks!! make sure you remove any damgaed foam first or the whole repair will just fall off. 

I might be sailing it, but it's still sh**e!

Posted By: jeffers
Date Posted: 20 Apr 06 at 3:49pm
That looks like it has been repaired before to me and it is the repair that has come adrift.

As tack'ho says clear out any duff foam and then rebuild using epoxy and fillers. I Did that to a small hole in the bow of one of my Lasers and the boat is still going strong!

D-Zero GBR 74

Posted By: John Wilson
Date Posted: 20 Apr 06 at 4:02pm

Oops, seems I underestimated the damage! I don't think that one is for plastic padding.

I hope you get it sorted ok & that you're back on the water soon!

Posted By: Strawberry
Date Posted: 20 Apr 06 at 4:13pm

Originally posted by jeffers

I Did that to a small hole in the bow of one of my Lasers and the boat is still going strong!

Owning one laser is bad enough...

Cherub 2649 "Dangerous Strawberry

Posted By: Isis
Date Posted: 20 Apr 06 at 4:13pm
Id agree with the "clear out any duff foam and then rebuild using epoxy and fillers" option but id like to add that it should be done with an angle grinder or similar high speed powertool, none of this pansy 'carefull removal'  stuff....


Posted By: timnoyce
Date Posted: 20 Apr 06 at 4:53pm
Isis, i agree. If you don't have access to an angle grinder then use a belt sander with 60grit paper. Take the board down to a point where there is no more damaged foam and then make a thick bog using epoxy resin, microfibres and maybe some colloidal silica to ensure you have a thick enough paste so it is easy to work with.

Let this go off and then start sanding back to the right shape. (best bet is to leave at least one end of the board the right height so you have a base mark to work to.)

When you are nearing the correct shape then you might want to use a lighter mixture of fillers so you can sand it more easily as it will be a little softer. Maybe some ultralite fairing fillers or simply some micro balloons.

Sand till very smooth... sell boat... buy a cherub... go sailing

(ps that is what i would do, i have limited experience so stand to be corrected by anyone with a better idea!!)

------------- - BEARFOOT DESIGN
Cherub 2648 - Comfortably Numb

Posted By: stuarthop
Date Posted: 20 Apr 06 at 5:45pm
to be honest what tim has just said is exactly what i would also do, just remember be brave it may sound a bit extreme or risky taking an angle grinder to your foils but its the only realistic way you can get a good strong repair.  


Posted By: redback
Date Posted: 24 Apr 06 at 11:53pm
I thought you might like to see my dagger board.

Posted By: Black no sugar
Date Posted: 25 Apr 06 at 12:06am

That's exactly the colour scheme I saw in a house we visited last year! I didn't know you lived in Brighton, redback!

Oooops sorry, that was a blonde moment...

Seriously, what's hit you? Do you still sail at WeirWood? Have you finally run out of water?

------------- - Lancing SC

Posted By: Villan
Date Posted: 25 Apr 06 at 6:58am

How.... ?

Vareo - 149 "Secrets"" rel="nofollow - TandyUK Servers

Posted By: Matt Jackson
Date Posted: 25 Apr 06 at 12:49pm
Good job!

RS400 1289, Laser 203001

Posted By: Pierre
Date Posted: 25 Apr 06 at 1:19pm
You see, that's what happens when you try to run over an Osprey...... 

Blimey, I bet you stopped quickly; straight over the handle bars. !!!!

And I'll have you know young lady (you know who you are) that we are now 65% full at Weir Wood.  I have not hit any submerged masonary for a few weeks now

Posted By: Contender 541
Date Posted: 25 Apr 06 at 2:46pm
respect is seriously overdue to anyone who can do that

When you find a big kettle of crazy it's probably best not to stir it - Pointy Haired Boss

Crew on 505 8780

Posted By: Rupert
Date Posted: 25 Apr 06 at 4:01pm
Not really planning on mending that, are you?! I'd have said that ranked as a "ring insurance company" moment...

Firefly 2324, Lightning 130, Puffin 229, Minisail 3446 Mirror 70686

Posted By: BBSCFaithfull
Date Posted: 25 Apr 06 at 8:21pm
Umm i believe that redback hit a submerged piece of concrete in the 400 at a high planing speed . Old drivers lol

Greatfully Sponsored By
Int 14 GBR 1503!!

Posted By: Quagers
Date Posted: 25 Oct 06 at 12:21pm

Ive chipped the trailing corner of my laser daggerboard, these not much damage but its scratching my boat when i lift it out, i was thinking that all i need to do is sand it smooth but is there a way i could rebuilt the shape,   im not sure filler would work because its not a hole and could just come straight off.

not my daggerboard just showing where the damage is

Posted By: Matt Jackson
Date Posted: 25 Oct 06 at 12:54pm

I repaired a similar ding for a friend not so long ago but it was more like a bite out of the trailing edge and I had the pieced that came out. I drilled a couple of holes and epoxied in some stainless screws which I had removed the heads and filed smooth (in case the repair fell out leaving the screws behind).

I then bonded the new bit back on and filled in any gaps with epoxy, Coloidal silica and glass bubbles, sanded it smooth and put a really thing layer of gelcoat over the top to get a nice finish.

If you don't have the bit that's missing tape some plastic sheet to one side and build up the shape with epoxy, coloidal silica + glass bubbles. Let it set, remove the sheet and fill any holes etc with gelcoat filler. You could just use just gelcoat filler if the area is small and this will give you a 'sacrificial' tip which will fail before the daggerboard case if you hit something. You will have to replace it often though if you throw your board into the boat every time you come ashore.

See below for suggestions as to why this is the wrong thing to do and the correct way to do it any time now


RS400 1289, Laser 203001

Posted By: Quagers
Date Posted: 25 Oct 06 at 1:42pm
lol, thanks for the advice, the damage is pretty small and im not sersiosly racing so i'll probably just sand then gel coat it, just wanted to see what options i had.

Posted By: JimC
Date Posted: 25 Oct 06 at 4:55pm
Originally posted by Matt Jackson

...and build up the shape with epoxy, coloidal silica + glass bubbles.

I'd have a reasonable percentage of microfibres in the mix for more strength and a bit of flexibility. With just Silica and bubble it might be a bit more brittle than ideal.

Posted By: Matt Jackson
Date Posted: 25 Oct 06 at 5:22pm
You're right of course Jim.

RS400 1289, Laser 203001

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