Different makes of Epoxy

   I need to do some small repairs mainly the bottom to deck joint on my Alpha raceboard. Looking on Ebay I see a wide range of Epoxy resins, WEST and others that are half the price.
Does anyone know the difference? Is there a chemical difference between WEST epoxy and the others? Some are sold as UV resistant, does this mean they don't have to be varnished or you can use them as a varnish? 

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Riv Send Private Message Find Member's Posts Far too distracted from work Joined: 23 Nov 13 Location: South Devon Online Status: Offline Posts: 353	Post Options Post Reply Quote Riv Report Post Quote Reply Topic: Different makes of Epoxy Posted: 14 Mar 18 at 7:53pm
	I need to do some small repairs mainly the bottom to deck joint on my Alpha raceboard. Looking on Ebay I see a wide range of Epoxy resins, WEST and others that are half the price. Does anyone know the difference? Is there a chemical difference between WEST epoxy and the others? Some are sold as UV resistant, does this mean they don't have to be varnished or you can use them as a varnish?
	Mistral Div II prototype board, Original Windsurfer, Hornet built'74.

Rupert Send Private Message Find Member's Posts Really should get out more Joined: 11 Aug 04 Location: Whitefriars sc Online Status: Offline Posts: 8956	Post Options Post Reply Quote Rupert Report Post Quote Reply Posted: 14 Mar 18 at 8:37pm
	No idea on the chemical differences, but some are certainly harder than others when cured. Recently used the one from Swindon Watersports, which is clear, and worked well.
	Firefly 2324, Puffin 229, Minisail 3446 Mirror 70686

Sam.Spoons Send Private Message Find Member's Posts Really should get out more Joined: 07 Mar 12 Location: Manchester UK Online Status: Offline Posts: 3393	Post Options Post Reply Quote Sam.Spoons Report Post Quote Reply Posted: 14 Mar 18 at 9:17pm
	For the amount you'll need I'd buy West or SP Systems. Use microfibres to make a paste and the repair will be the strongest bit of the board. I repaired a very badly damaged Mistral Superlight (it had been in the shore break under the pier somewhere on the South Coast and was an insurance right off I bought from the insurers. 13 holes from a fews mm to the full width of the board a foot from the nose, almost the full depth too), I went on to race it with some success at club and regional events for a few years until Div 1 morphed into Raceboard and it was no longer competitive.
	Spice 346 "Flat Broke" Blaze 671 "supersonic soap dish"

Riv Send Private Message Find Member's Posts Far too distracted from work Joined: 23 Nov 13 Location: South Devon Online Status: Offline Posts: 353	Post Options Post Reply Quote Riv Report Post Quote Reply Posted: 15 Mar 18 at 10:24am
	Thanks for the tips, my board has split along the seam for about a foot close to the front so I'm going to push the bits together using a wooden fixture and then laminate some glass tape over the joint. Lots if holes to fill as well. I saw the swindon epoxy, glad to know it works.
	Mistral Div II prototype board, Original Windsurfer, Hornet built'74.

Sam.Spoons Send Private Message Find Member's Posts Really should get out more Joined: 07 Mar 12 Location: Manchester UK Online Status: Offline Posts: 3393	Post Options Post Reply Quote Sam.Spoons Report Post Quote Reply Posted: 15 Mar 18 at 5:10pm
	that should work but it might look neater if you split the deck and hull skins and fill the gap with epoxy and microfibres, close up and clean off the excess allowing a little to remain as a small patch. If the skin of the board is ABS over a glass core an external patch may not stick. I can't really remember clearly but I think Alpha used both ABS and epoxy in their boards, obviously not sure about yours. Oh and make sure it's properly dry inside or you'll be looking at delaminating heaven......
	Spice 346 "Flat Broke" Blaze 671 "supersonic soap dish"

Wiclif Send Private Message Find Member's Posts Groupie Joined: 04 Oct 05 Location: United Kingdom Online Status: Offline Posts: 79	Post Options Post Reply Quote Wiclif Report Post Quote Reply Posted: 16 Mar 18 at 5:23pm
	If it is an Alpha 220PR and you expose the core then you must use epoxy. I must stress that I am not a repair expert but my favoured method would be to open the split and use a piece of woven tape pre wetted with epoxy and push in beteeen the foam and the skin both on the hull and deck. Then tape (pvc or parcel tape) over the seam, keep it closed with roof rack straps and position the board so that the repair is at the low point so that any excess epoxy would want to drain out at the repair. ( but you are stopping that with your sticky tape) In other words you are trying to get your bond between the deck and the hull skin with your repair. Contact with the foam is incidental. As Sam says, make sure the repair area is dry. If not, then it would be worthwhile rinsing it in fresh water and allowing to dry first. Also mask off all around your repair area before starting

Riv Send Private Message Find Member's Posts Far too distracted from work Joined: 23 Nov 13 Location: South Devon Online Status: Offline Posts: 353	Post Options Post Reply Quote Riv Report Post Quote Reply Posted: 19 Mar 18 at 7:57pm
	Thanks, it is an Alpha 220 Pro Race, been hanging up in the warm and dry for a year so no problems there. The reason I'm thinking of reinforcing the outside is that there is a fair bit of dirt inside the split and I don't know whether I can clean it enough to make it all stick reliably. Do you know what it is all made of. Little info on the web. Thanks
	Mistral Div II prototype board, Original Windsurfer, Hornet built'74.

Pastyman Send Private Message Find Member's Posts Newbie Joined: 06 Dec 07 Location: United Kingdom Online Status: Offline Posts: 30	Post Options Post Reply Quote Pastyman Report Post Quote Reply Posted: 20 Mar 18 at 10:29am
	Tha Alpha 220PR was made of Epoxy resin over a dual foam core Part of the core is EPS the other part polyurethane foam No ABS used as a shell , the boards were finished in a mould with the epoxy resin put under pressure